Еще в России мы решили, что этим летом поедем отдыхать в Италию на море. Выбирали город, чтобы море было с песчаными пляжами, чтобы детям было удобно заходить и выходить из моря и было где поиграть в песок на берегу. Сначала хотели ехать в Лиругию, но по отзывам и описанию на туристических сайтах, побережье там каменистое. Поэтому решили поехать на Апуанскую или Тосканскую ривьеру, в город Масса, точнее его прибрежную часть Марина ди Масса. По GoogleMaps от нас всего 6,5 часов ехать на машине. Выехали в полшестого утра с таким расчетом, чтобы по жаре меньше ехать и в обед быть на месте. Маршрут проходил через Австрию, Швейцарию и конечно Италию. В Австрии заправили полный бак, долили 42,5 литра дизеля по 1,25 евро за литр. Швейцария нас встретила грозовыми облаками и дождем, даже ливнем.
Мы купили билет для проезда по платным дорогам и приклеили его на лобовое стекло. По Швейцарии мы ехали около 3 часов. Вокруг было очень красиво, и мы постоянно говорили Лере: «смотри какой замок!», «смотри какая гора!», «а вон там водопады!» Но ранний подъем, дождь и монотонная ровная дорога сделали свое дело: дети уснули.
Когда мы въехали в Италию, дождь закончился и из-за туч выглянуло яркое солнце. Изменилось и поведение водителей на дороге: сейчас оно очень напоминало российскую. Про поворотники все забыли, периодически слышались звуки клаксона и ситуация на дороге постоянно менялась 🙂 Но это же мелочи, наконец-то мы в солнечной Италии! Скоро будет море, пляж и солнце каждый день! Радость продолжалась до первого турникета оплаты платной дороги. Здесь во всю ширину дороги стояли терминалы для оплаты. За несколько сотен метров начинается разделение по полосам: кто оплачивает картой едут по полосе с синей разметкой, кто наличными с желтой. Но то ли водители резко меняют свое решение по способу оплаты, то ли меняются значки по приему наличных — не знаю в чем вина, но около каждого такого турникета собираются пробки и машины перестраиваются кто как может. Всего мы проехали 3 таких турникета и около одного из них стояли в пробке около часа. За платные дороги в Италии мы отдали 2,9 евро, 2,2 евро и 22 евро в разных терминалах. Потом по маршруту мы съехали с платной дороги и направились в наш город Массу. Ехали медленно, был очень большой машинопоток. Останавливались один раз пообедать и размять ноги. В итоге вместо 6,5 часов, как предсказывал нам Гугл, мы были в пути 10 часов. Приехали мы уставшие, но с надеждами, что самое худшее позади и нас ждет хороший отдых.
Квартира, которую мы забронировали нам понравилась. Там был небольшой садик с пальмой и газончиком, на террасе стоял столик со стульями, был общий бассейн и до моря 5 минут пешком. Пляжи в основном платные, они огорожены забором, там есть кафе, душ, туалет, шезлонги и зонтики.
Мы ходили на бесплатный пляж, где есть все тоже самое, только шезлонги и зонтики надо оплачивать отдельно.
После первой же прогулки по городу мы увидели, что Масса довольно грязный город: на парковках в кустах валяются пакеты с мусором, на улицах фантики, окурки и всякий другой мелкий мусор. В городе много зданий явно нуждаются в ремонте, а некоторые находятся в аварийном состоянии.
Мы были немного разочарованы местом, которое выбрали для нашего отдыха.
Еще большее разочарование принесла первая ночь: нас ограбили. Пока мы спали, кто-то пробрался в квартиру через незакрытую дверь на террасу и вытащил всю наличку из кошельков. Проснувшись утром, мы обнаружили свои пустые кошельки на столике в садике, рядом валялись телефоны и карточки. Телефоны не взяли, потому что установлена защита на экране. Карточки — видимо потому, что при использовании нужен пароль. Мы сообщили об этом хозяину, на что он сказал, что такое случилось первый раз и мы сами виноваты, что не закрыли на замок выход на террасу. Также мы вызывали полицию, но понятно, что найти кого-то в такой ситуации невозможно. С этого дня, когда мы уходили из квартиры и на ночь, мы закрывали все ставни и запирали все замки 🙂 Дальнейшие расходы были исключительно с кредитки.
Этот случай был конечно неприятный, но мы постарались забыть о нем и продолжили отдых, не возвращаться же домой, раз уже все оплачено на 2 недели вперед. Первые несколько дней мы провели на пляже, а по вечерам гуляли по городу.
Сам город и атмосфера в нем очень напомнили нам Адлер и Сочи: в центре на каждом шагу кафешки и магазинчики, много лавочек с сувенирами.
Днем на пляже ходят негры и продают полотенца, очки, купальники, браслеты и подобные товары. Если торговец подходит к тебе и ты один раз скажешь «No», он не верит и начинает показывать весь свой ассортимент. И только более твердое «No, no, grazie» может заставить его повернуть в другую сторону 🙂
Рядом с нашими апартаментами мы обнаружили пиццерию Ale’s Pizza. Эта вкуснейшая пицца и кальзоне готовятся на огне в специальной печи. Большой ассортимент, приветливый хозяин и быстрое обслуживание, а главное отличный вкус пиццы делают пиццерию популярным местом — вечером там всегда полно народа.
Через несколько дней валяния на пляже нам захотелось посмотреть окрестности. Мы решили продолжить отдых в режиме: день катаемся и смотрим другие города, пару дней отдыхаем на пляже или ходим в бассейн. Первой стала поездка в Пизу. Затем мы посмотрели средневековый замок в Фосдиново, городок Фивиццано с сохранившимися античными постройками, а также нашли чудесную песчаную бухту среди скал в местечке Бонассола.
Отдых в Марина ди Масса. Часть 2 — поездки по окрестностям: Пиза, Отдых в Марина ди Масса. Часть 3 — поездки по окрестностям: Фосдиново и Фивиццано, Отдых в Марина ди Масса. Часть 4 — поездки по окрестностям: Бонассола
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